


Discovered another amazing church, this one quietly moldering within the high walls of a monastery. Ancient chisel-marks on the stone steps, patient tabby cat and empty dish on the windowsill, and beneath the wide eyes of the stern polychrome saints covering the ceiling, small tables covered in oilcloth where little vials and candles are sold, with handwritten notes scotch-taped to the tabletop, as if someone had set up a field kitchen in a museum. (What is it with the miniature domestic islands in public buildings here?)
EB loves these visits to "Maryjesus," and we always light a pair of candles for her and her sister, "to keep me safe and warm" as she says, and while inside she insists on wearing a headscarf too, even if she already has a cap on.
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